New Elastosome Technology Enhances EGF Delivery for Superior Anti-Aging Effects
By CM Tay
09 February 2026
Cosmetic formulators have long faced challenges in effectively delivering bioactive proteins like epidermal growth factor (EGF) through topical creams. However, a pioneering development by researchers in South Korea promises to revolutionize anti-aging skincare with a novel "elastosome" delivery system that significantly boosts EGF skin penetration and efficacy.
Breakthrough in Anti-Aging Ingredient Delivery
The collaborative research team from Inha University Hospital, Humantest Co, and B&B Korea has introduced an innovative elastosome formulation designed to overcome the formidable barrier posed by the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum. This layer consists of tightly packed lipids that traditionally hinder large-molecule ingredients such as EGF from penetrating into deeper skin layers where they exert their rejuvenating effects.
Until now, conventional liposome delivery vehicles—used for decades to encapsulate and transport active compounds—have been limited due to their rigid structures, which restrict their ability to squeeze through microscopic skin gaps. The new elastosome technology features a flexible lipid bilayer membrane enhanced with specialized surfactants that impart exceptional deformability, likened by researchers to comparing a rigid tennis ball (liposome) to a soft stress ball (elastosome).
EGF FLEXIR-SOME: Structure and Stability
The research team engineered EGF FLEXIR-SOME particles that consist of a water-friendly core surrounded by an ultra-flexible lipid bilayer. This design allows the vesicles to adapt their shape dynamically, enabling deeper and more efficient penetration through the skin.
Manufactured using high-pressure microfluidization at 1,000 bar, the particles average 124.8 nanometers in diameter—an optimal size balancing effective penetration with formulation stability. Impressively, the zeta potential, a key indicator of colloidal stability, was -57.53mV for elastosomes, markedly stronger than the -45.08mV typical of traditional liposomes. This enhanced charge stability suggests that elastosome-based formulations resist agglomeration and separation, making them highly suitable for commercial production and long shelf life.
Superior Penetration Demonstrated in Laboratory Tests
Laboratory testing using an artificial skin membrane analog demonstrated the elastosome system’s superior penetration performance. Dexpanthenol, used as a marker to monitor delivery efficacy, was detected in the membrane within six hours of application and continued to accumulate over 24 hours. In stark contrast, traditional liposome formulations showed no detectable penetration after the same period, underscoring the transformative potential of the elastosome delivery mechanism.
Clinical Trials Show Noticeable Anti-Aging Benefits
To confirm laboratory findings in real-world conditions, the researchers conducted a two-week clinical trial involving 22 healthy Korean women aged over 30. Participants applied creams containing either 2% or 8% elastosome formulation on opposite sides of their faces in a split-face design.
The trial results were encouraging: even at the lower 2% concentration (equivalent to 1ppm EGF), subjects experienced a 9.87% increase in eye area skin elasticity and an 8.97% reduction in wrinkle depth after just 14 days. Assessment of overall skin age using a specialized Skin Age Index, which factors in elasticity, roughness, and sagging, revealed a 14.21% improvement with the 2% formulation, while the 8% cream yielded a 10.49% improvement. These outcomes suggest the elastosome system efficiently delivers EGF to skin cells, achieving near-saturation benefits even at modest dosages.
Additional Skin Benefits: Hydration, Barrier Repair, and Pigmentation Reduction
Beyond anti-aging effects, the elastosome formulation demonstrated powerful hydration abilities and a capacity to repair skin barrier damage. In a separate study of 21 women, a single application of the cream resulted in a remarkable 448.52% increase in skin moisture content measured by skin permittivity. The formulation also enhanced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) recovery by 31.57% compared to 10.59% in controls, indicating superior skin barrier restoration.
Moreover, the trial reported a 7.89% decrease in melanin content on the cheeks after two weeks of twice-daily use, pointing to potential benefits in reducing hyperpigmentation and melasma. These combined effects are attributed to the deep delivery of EGF and another key ingredient, nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN), further amplifying skin health outcomes.
Safety and Future Directions
Safety assessments involving 32 participants confirmed both 2% and 8% elastosome formulations are non-irritating, showing no adverse reactions or allergies. This confirms the platform’s suitability for sensitive skin types and broad consumer use.
The researchers acknowledged some limitations, noting the similar performance between the 2% and 8% concentrations suggest a biological ceiling for short-term absorption. They advocate for future studies involving larger, more diverse populations and longer durations to refine dosing recommendations and validate universal applicability.
Conclusion: A New Era in Skin Care Delivery
This cutting-edge elastosome technology offers a multifunctional cosmetic platform that enhances the efficacy of potent bioactive ingredients like EGF while supporting overall skin health. By enabling superior penetration, improved stability, and broad dermatological benefits such as anti-aging, hydration, barrier repair, and pigmentation control, the EGF-loaded elastosome formulation stands poised to transform the future of topical skincare treatments.
Source:
Heo Seul Gi et al., “Development of an Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) Loaded Elastosome Formulation for Enhanced Skin Penetration and Anti-Aging Effects,” Cosmetics, DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics13010010
Related News:
- Kampo-based cream reduces eye wrinkles in Japanese clinical trial (29 Jan 2026)
- Probiotic-derived phenyllactic acid as a potent skin lightening agent (22 Jan 2026)
- N-carbamylglutamate (NCG) shows multifunctional anti-aging properties (20 Jan 2026)
